Unlike panoramas taken with other cameras, with a Holga there’s no need to stitch the images together on the PC; the whole stitching thing is done directly on the negative.
Holga panoramas are made simply by turning the advance knob only one turn after taking the first picture. By doing so the second picture will overlap the first image, the third will overlap the second and so on.
There are mainly two ways of making Holga panoramas; you can stand in one place and just shift your body between images or you can move sideways between images keeping your camera at the same level. One important thing to remember is to take the panorama images from left to right.
And also don’t forget it’s a Holga! In other words, the panorama doesn’t have to be perfect; actually it’s probably better that it isn’t.
PHOTOGRAPHING AT NIGHT
Since the Holga doesn’t have a light meter or a real shutter speed and F stop settings, you might find yourself at the mercy of your film’s speed if you are shooting at night.
However, the Holga 120FN version has a super advanced feature: it is called the B exposure. But before you jump for joy you might want to know the way it really works is that you need to press the shutter release button for as long as you want your exposure to last. ouch!
Not to mention the pain and suffering your poor finger must go through, it is also impossible to hold your breath or keep steady for long enough to prevent that horrible camera shake (the ugly cousin of the attractive motion blur).
This is where your choice of film can help.
If you don’t mind long exposures, go for the 400ASA film and expose your film in the average lit area for about 30-40 seconds!
800ASA will allow you to cut down your exposure time to a good 10-15 seconds. But at last you will see the light when you use 3200ASA, which tolerates an exposure of somewhere between 1-3 seconds.
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