Simple inkjet transfer

This is one of the simplest and easiest ways to transfer an image, mainly because (1) the transfer is done without applying any transfer medium and (2) it is an instant process.

What you need:

• Inkjet Printer
• Standard Sheet Protector
• Receiving surface such as a photographic paper.

Inkjet or printer transfer is a very simple process. It works because the photo is printed on a nonabsorbent surface, like glassine or wax paper, the back side of the sticky labels paper or my favorite; a standard sheet
protector.
As you print your photo into a non-absorbent surface the ink will remain wet for a while. All you need to do now is transfer the image onto any type of photographic paper by pressing the print face down into the receiving paper.

Now, a few words of wisdom:
1) It is recommended, especially if you have text in the photo, to print a mirror image of your photo – otherwise the final transfer will appear to be backwards.
2) If the sheet protector does not go smoothly through your printer, try inserting a piece of standard printer paper inside the sheet protector before printing, and then try again.
3) You can set your printer to any of the paper/media type options available for your printer, but keep in mind that unless you wish to have the ink-smudge effect, the “plain paper” option will work quite well (not to mention it will help you economize the use of precious ink).
4) The ink works well on most surfaces I tried, but if you choose to transfer to a surface that is not so smooth such as canvas it is a good idea to increase the amount of ink by setting the printer to a photo paper printing.
5) Using inkjet transparency film for inkjet transfer won’t work since this type of media absorbs the ink rather quickly. However you can still use  inkjet transparencies for gel medium image transfer.

Adding texture to a photo

The next few posts are going to feature texture layers; how to work with them and also I’ll show you how to create your own textures.

* * * * * * *

The fastest way to add a new dimension to a picture is to open your photo editor and insert an additional layer of texture. This method is quite simple and mainly involves placing one or more layers that contain texture, on top of your original photo.
In addition to bringing a layer of depth, these textures often introduce the illusion of dust, dirt, stains and creases to the photo and create a final grungy and dramatic appearance.
The texture can be made on the computer, as many of the existing graphics software offer tools for making such textures and backgrounds. However, I find it incomparably effortless to simply scan homemade textures or even designer papers (sometimes called scrapbooking or decorated paper). Often, people prefer to use found textures such as peeling paint, leaves, fabrics, rust or scratched surface, which they capture on film (or digitally) and set as backgrounds for their images.
Whatever textures you choose for your art work, you will blend them in your photo editor on different layers so that your photo will act as the background layer. Play around with the transparency and blending mode settings to let the textures show through your photos.
When blending the textures with your photo, you can insert as many layers as you wish – don’t limit yourself to one type of texture; you can combine as many texture layers as you like for a unique edge.

The reason this technique is so effective is because people are often drawn to texture, especially when it is unexpectedly found in a two dimensional image.

Next: MAKE YOUR OWN TEXTURES

Zoom lens special effect

To make this effect you need a camera with a manual zoom lens and one that is capable
of taking long exposures.
Focus on the subject of your choice while keeping it in the center of your frame.
Now, zoom your lens in or out while the shutter is open and the exposure is made.
It’s a no-brainer. Even you can do it

Something about cross processed film

A couple of months ago I wrote a post praising the charm of cross-processed slide film. One thing I would like to add is that different types of slide film will react differently when cross-processed; Often they appear green but sometimes they have a blue or even a brownish hue. Therefore it will be a good idea to try a few of them before settling on your favorite effect.

And this is what a cross-processed Fuji RDPIII looks like:

(very) expired film

I find that if I use an expired film, even when it is 2-3 years past the expiration date, there’s really no noticeable inferiority in the final result. Most film begin a very slow process of deterioration well after the expiration date. On top of it, refrigeration will extend the life of the film for an indefinite period of time.
But if you do want to get some unexpected and unusual results from your (cheap) expired film you’d better let it expire for a really long time. And maybe even
consider further damaging it by placing it in the sun or forgetting it sitting in your
camera for a few months.

This picture was taken in Venice, with a Kodak T400 CN, expired in 2001 and was shot with an Olympus 35 RC.